The Evangelical Lutheran Savior (Sts. Kyril & Metodi Bulgarian Cathedral) 552 W. 50th St.

 

 

photograph by Farragutful

On the evening of September 4, 1887, fire broke out on the second floor of the tenement building at 552 West 50th Street.  The following day, the New-York Tribune wrote that the flames had spread throughout the five-story building "and early this morning were still burning fiercely."  Tenements in the Hell's Kitchen district like this one were crammed with indigent families.  The article said that fire department officials predicted "that not less than ten bodies were buried in the burning ruins."

Steinhardt & Son erected a "three-story brick ribbon factory" on the site.  A minor labor problem arose in the summer of 1893.  The Evening World reported that some union members "had been insulted at Steinhardt's factory, 552 West Fiftieth street, for refusing to work on Memorial Day."  

On October 1, 1897, Herman von Hollen purchased the building for $12,000 (about $468,000 in 2026).  The buyer was, more precisely, Reverend Herman von Hollen, rector of the Evangelische Lutheriske Heilands Kirche (Evangelical Lutheran Savior Church).  

Born in Hanover, Germany on December 1, 1852, Von Hollen was ordained in 1878.  He married Matilda Lomberg in 1890 and had seven children, three of whom died in childhood.  The Von Hollens relocated to New York City in 1896.  Rev. Von Hollen organized the congregation in March 1897, just seven months before purchasing the factory building.  He had chosen a hardscrabble neighborhood in which to minister, and his was the first Lutheran church in Hell's Kitchen.

Within a month of the purchase, Von Hollen had commissioned the architectural firm of Kurtzer & Rohl to renovate the factory into "a three story brick dwelling and mission house."  The renovations cost him the equivalent of $117,000 today.  The architects' focus was the interior and little of the building's exterior appearance was altered.  In his 1907 Genealogical and Family History of New York, William S. Pelletreau described the Lutheran church:

It is a brick edifice, neatly furnished, with a seating capacity of about four hundred.  The work of the church is in larger degree among a poor class of the German population.

By 1903, the church was known simply as the German Lutheran Christ Church.  The renovated factory is the light-colored brick structure toward the left.  Federation magazine, June 1903 (copyright expired)

The Von Hollen family, a caretaker, a maid, and a housekeeper occupied the upper floors.  

The ruffians of the Hell's Kitchen neighborhood were noted for their mischievousness, not their piety, as the newly-arrived German minister soon discovered.  On June 28, 1898, The New York Press reported that he defended himself before Magistrate Kudlich when he was accused by "half a dozen women" of abusing their children.  Von Hollen explained, "that he and his congregation were annoyed by children of the neighborhood, who howled around the church and threw stones and tin cans through the windows during services."

The mothers, "accused the minister of running out of the church and pulling the children's ears," said the article.  The magistrate sided with Von Hollen and dismissed the case, "but warned the women to be careful of their children's conduct hereafter."

Despite the magistrate's order, little changed.  Three years later, on May 18, 1901, The Evening World reported that Von Hollen had discovered two boys attempting to break into the church.  When he confronted them, John Ruck and Charles Kaiser, both 12 years old, pelted the minister with rocks.  It was a substantial assault.  The New York Morning Telegraph said that when Von Hollen appeared in court, "His scalp was furrowed by cuts and his clothing was gore [i.e., blood] stained."  But Rev. Herman von Hollen was what the newspaper described as, "One of the so-called 'turn the other cheek folk.'"  He begged Magistrate Zeller to "give the boys another chance," according to The Evening World.  Zeller told the delinquents that "were it not for Dr. Von Hollen's appeal...he would send them both to the House of Refuge."

Adolph Hernman worked as the caretaker of the property and lived in an upstairs room.  The German immigrant sported "a beard of patriarchal dimensions," as described by the New York Herald.  He, too, would become a target of neighborhood hooligans.  On August 15, 1905, he was walking along West 50th Street with a package when four boys "came up to him and asked for a match," as reported by the newspaper.  When he thrust his free hand into his pocket to get the match, "the four boys grabbed him.  Each one got a fistful of whiskers and the four pulled in different directions."

The reporter presumed that the prank was "exceedingly painful to the flesh, but more lacerating to the spirit."  Hernman found a policeman who "offered himself as the hook if Hernman would walk through the block again as bait."  And sure enough, within a few minutes one of the boys, 16-year-old Charles Kabish, attempted to grab the caretaker's beard.  The policeman rushed in and nabbed him.

The New York Herald reported, "Kabish wept a bucketful in court, but Magistrate Finn has seen boys cry before."  The teen was jailed for a day to spend "in meditation upon the evil of pulling whiskers and being caught at it."

In 1907, Rev. Herman von Hollen purchased a one-story brick church on Walton Avenue in the Bronx.  He retained ownership of the East 50th Street structure, and leased it to the Roman Catholic Church of St. Clemens and Mary.  The congregation occupied the building as it collected funds for its own structure.  On November 4, 1911, The New York Times reported that the St. Clemens and Mary congregation had purchased "two old residences" at 408 and 410 West 40th Street.  The article said, "a new edifice for the parish work is to be erected at once."

The new St. Clemens and Mary Church building was completed in 1912.  The consecration ceremony was held on May 26, but it went horribly awry.  The New-York Tribune headlined an article, "Crowded Stand at Church Collapses."  The article said that 3,000 persons panicked as the stands inside the church buckled.  Although 15 people were injured, some enough to be hospitalized, the ceremony went on.

Rev. Herman von Hollen now leased the West 50th Street building to the newly formed Saints Cyrillus and Methodius congregation.  It was founded by Franciscan friars to serve the increasing Croatian immigrant population.  The 1914 The Catholic Church in the United States of America recalled:

On October 16, 1913, this parish was formally established for the Croatians and entrusted to Rev. Ambrose Sirca, O.F.M.  An old church at 552 West 50th Street which was formerly used by St. Clemens' Polish congregation was obtained and dedicated to SS. Cyrillus and Methodius.

On New Year's Day, 1915, The New York Times reported that Von Hollen had sold the property to "St. Cyril and Methodius Catholic Church."  Now that the congregation owned the building, it set out to make it look like a proper church.  In April 1915, it commissioned architect Frederick J. Schwartz to remodel the structure.  The New York Herald reported that his plans  "consist of building an entire new front wall, new stairs to the choir, new vestibule, and an addition to the choir loft for a sanctuary and sacristy."  The renovations cost the equivalent of $483,000 today.

Schartz's neo-Gothic design gave nods to the Croatian congregation's roots.  Faced in beige brick and trimmed in sandstone, the facade was dominated by a two-story, Gothic-arched stained-glass window.  The copper-clad steeple atop a square, featureless base reflected traditional Southeastern European prototypes.

The main stained-glass window depicts Saints Cyril and Methodius.  photograph by Carole Teller

The renovated church was dedicated on September 30, 1915.  The New York Herald reported, "and it will be known henceforth as the Church of Sts. Cyril and Methodius."  The article noted, "This will be the church centre for more than five thousand Catholics who came to the United States from Croatia, in the southern part of Austria-Hungary."

Aloysius Viktor Stepinac was the Archbishop of Zagreb (in Croatia).  Stepinac was imprisoned by the Yugoslav Government in 1946 for accused treason.  Croatian-American citizens protested.  On October 12, 1948, The New York Times reported on the "two young women in Croat peasant costumes" and five young men who picketed the Yugoslav consulate on Fifth Avenue.  The article said, "The young women said they were members of the Stepinac Club of New York, connected with the Church of Sts. Cyril and Methodius of 552 West Fiftieth Street."

In 1974, the congregation of Sts. Cyril and Methodius merged with that of St. Raphael's Church on West 41st Street and moved into that building.  The East 50th Street structure empty sat until 1979, when it was purchased by the Bulgarian Eastern Orthodox Church.  The diocese made renovations, completed in 1984.  It was dedicated on May 12.

The following day, The New York Times reported that dozens of lay volunteers had "worked countless hours transforming a dilapidated church on the West Side of Manhattan into the showpiece of Bulgarian-American life in the New York metropolitan area."

photograph by Carole Teller

The article said that three artists, "who worked more than 70 hours a week on the project for the last two years," headed the group that embellished "nearly every square inch of the interior of the St. Kiril and Metodi Eastern Orthodox Church."  The main force behind the remodeling, including its financing, was 43-year-old Bulgarian immigrant Anton Russev.  The article said the painting was either done directly onto the plaster walls, or on panels in Russev's Lafayette Street studio.  An official of the Bulgarian Eastern Orthodox Church said this was the only structure in the United States "that has been decorated in traditional style with Eastern Orthodox icons."

photograph by Carole Teller

The congregation is still in the building with its riveting history.

many thanks to artist Carole Teller for suggesting this post.

J. M. Felson's 1929 218 West 10th Street

image via streeteasy.com

Abraham Schwartz was a builder and real estate developer, head of the A. M. Schwartz Building & Construction Company.  On May 2, 1928, he purchased three three-story apartment buildings at 340 through 344 Bleecker Street and the abutting, five-story apartment house on the southwest corner of West 10th Street.  The next day, The New York Times announced that the old structures, "will be razed and replaced by a modern six-story elevator apartment building containing electric refrigeration and other modern improvements."

Schwartz commissioned the Russian-born architect Jacob M. Felson to design the building.  Completed the following year, the residential entrance was placed at the western end of the West 10th Street side.  The four stores along Bleecker Street were designed with deep arcade show windows that enabled the proprietors to create large displays.  (The corner store was double the size of the other three.)

Completed in 1929 at a cost of $238,700 (about $4.73 million in 2026), Felson's sleek, tripartite 1920s take on the Medieval Revival style included an arched corbel table below the fifth floor cornice, and stepped Tudor-inspired gables with blank shields atop the parapet.  Above the residential entrance Felson placed a carved Renaissance-inspired panel.

Abe Schwartz could not have predicted that the Stock Market would crash the year his building opened.  In August 1931, he lost the property in foreclosure.

A woman who lived here at the time (whose name was not disclosed in newspaper articles) was having an affair with a married Brooklyn man, Valentine C. Bauman.  In the meantime, Ruth C. Bauman was doing some private investigating on her own and tracked down her wandering husband to Manhattan and 218 West 10th Street.  On the evening of November 4, 1931, Ruth and "several of her friends," according to The Brooklyn Standard Union, barged into the apartment.  

Ruth told a judge on January 8, 1932, "There he was sitting on the side of the bed in two-piece underwear talking to a woman in [a] flesh-colored negligee."  According to Ruth Bauman, her husband remarked, "Here I am."  The article said that Ruth was "a free woman today."

The arcade storefronts survived as late as 1941.  via the NYC Dept of Records & Information Services.

Jane Carabine and Margaret Dusseau shared an apartment here as early as 1932.  Margaret came home early on the night of February 26, 1933, to discover her 30-year-old roommate dead.  The New York Times reported, "Gas was escaping from a jet of the kitchen range."  Police called Jane's death accidental.

As early as 1963, Aldo's Italian restaurant occupied the southern-most commercial space.  It was replaced by Boomer's soul food and jazz restaurant around 1972.  That year New York Magazine called it "a casual Village place where spareribs and black-eyed peas are served up with great sounds by the likes of Ray Bryant, Bobby Timmons and Cedar Watson."

The De Santis-Jensen "semi-antiques shop," as described by The New York Times on August 21, 1965, filled the corner space.  Owned by Stuart Jenson and Anthony de Santis, the shop appealed to "the special kind of person who appreciates kookiness as much as we do," according to Jensen.  He told The Times, "Barbra Streisand hasn't been in here, but Tony Perkins has, and so have Eli Wallach, Leonard Bernstein and Anne Bancroft."

photo by The New York Times photographer Bill Allen, August 21, 1965

Living here by 1987 was Glenn R. Purdy, an editor for Travel Agent magazine.  On July 23 that year, Purdy did not arrive at work.  When no one could reach him, senior editor Joe Murphy went to his apartment.  Getting no response from inside, Murphy walked over to the nearby Sixth Precinct station house.

Officers returned with Murphy and entered the apartment.  "They found Mr. Purdy's body on the living room couch," reported The New York Times.  According to one of the officers, the 57-year-old had been stabbed in the back and his pockets had been "ripped apart."  Because there was no sign of forced entry, officials thought Purdy knew his killer.  A bloody kitchen knife was recovered in the apartment.

The building's most celebrated tenant was playwright, librettist and screenwriter Terrence McNally, who lived here with his life partner (and, later, husband), Broadway producer and former civil rights attorney Tom Kirdahy.

Born on November 3, 1938, McNally graduated from Columbia University in 1960.  The next year, he was hired by novelist John Steinbeck and his wife to tutor their two teenaged sons while they traveled.  (McNally was already in a relationship with playwright Edward Albee.)

His first full-length play, This Side of the Door, was produced in 1962, and his Broadway debut came in 1965 when he was just 26 years old.  He would go on to write hits like Love! Valour! Compassion!, Master Class, and The Ritz.

Terrance McNally posed in front of the marquee of his first Broadway musical, The Rink, in 1984.  from the collection of the New York Public Library.

In reviewing his Mothers and Sons in the Observer on March 26, 2014, Rex Reed called the play "a masterpiece," and McNally, "one of the greatest contemporary playwrights the theater world has yet produced."  He also wrote the books for the musicals Kiss of the Spider Woman and Ragtime.  

McNally addressed gay sexuality and the AIDS crisis.  Writing in The New York Times on March 24, 2020, Jesse Green and Neil Genzlinger said, "His gay stories never came across as a narrowing of theater's human focus but as an expansion of it, and by inviting everyone into them he helped solidify the social change he was describing."

McNally and Kirdahy were still living at 218 West 10th Street when the four-time Tony Award-winning playwright died in Sarasota, Florida on March 24, 2020 at the age of 81.

photo via streeteasy.com

For decades the southern space on Bleecker Street was home to Manatus, a diner-type restaurant, while the Village Apothecary on the corner enjoyed equal longevity.  They were replaced by the Saint Theo's restaurant and a Pdpaola jewelry store, respectively.

The Wesson-Leland Mansion - 123 East 79th Street

 

Eufrasia Aguilar Leland and Emma Martha Leland were born in 1836 and 1844 respectively, two of the nine children born to Francis Smith Leland and Eufrasia Bernardina Aguilar Piriz.  Emma married Charles Howland Wesson, who died in 1873 when their only child (also named Eufrasia) was just three years old.

In 1906, the sisters purchased the two 20-foot-wide dwellings at 123 and 125 East 79th Street and hired the architectural firm of Foster, Gade & Graham to replace them with a double-wide mansion.  Simultaneously, Emma's daughter, Eufrasia, and her husband, artist Allen Tucker, commissioned Robins & Oakman to design a residence next door at 121 East 79th Street.  The two firms' neo-Georgian designs worked together in creating a harmonious effect.

Writing in The Architectural Record in November 1911, critic Montgomery Schuyler praised, "see how a big house and a little house may dwell together in amity on account of the employment of the same materials in both, when the designs of them have nothing in common beyond a loose and general agreement on 'style.'"

The Wesson-Leland mansion coexisted happily with its smaller neighbor.  The Architectural Record, November 1911 (copyright expired)

Faced in Flemish bond brick and trimmed in marble, the sisters' residence was three stories tall above a shallow basement.  Its Georgian inspired elements included fully-arched openings at the first floor, layered and splayed stone keystones at the second, and a dignified balustrade atop the cornice.

The women moved within society as a pair.  On July 7, 1918, for instance, the New York Herald reported, "Mrs. Charles Howland Wesson and her sister, Miss Eufrasia Leland of 123 East Seventy-ninth street, after a stay in Lenox, have gone to Poland Springs."

Eufrasia Aguilar Leland died in the East 79th Street mansion at the age of 88 on November 14, 1924.  Her funeral was held at the Church of the Incarnation on Madison Avenue three days later.  The following month, on Christmas Day, Emma died in the house.  Interestingly, her funeral on December 27 was held in the Church of the Resurrection on East 74th Street.

Dorothy May Jordan Robinson purchased the mansion.  Born in Boston in 1885, she was, according to The New York Times, "daughter of the late Eben D. Jordan, merchant of Boston and at one time a member of the famous dry goods firm of Jordan, Marsh & Co."  The newspaper said she "inherited a handsome fortune from her father."

Dorothy was estranged from her husband, Monroe Douglas Robinson, whom she married in 1916.  She had custody of their only daughter, Dorothy, who was eight years old in 1925.  Before moving in, Dorothy hired architect Mott Schmidt to add a fourth floor.  Set back from the roofline, the addition was greatly hidden behind the balustrade.

The new addition peeks above the balustrade in this 1940 photograph.  via the NYC Dept of Records & Information Services.

Dorothy Robinson would not be alone with her daughter and servants in the commodious home for long.  She obtained her divorce in December 1925, and on March 4, 1926, The New York Times reported that she and Elbridge Gerry Chadwick had been married in the house "in the presence of a few friends."

Chadwick, too, was born in Boston (he in 1881) and had lived in New York City since the turn of the century.  He was a partner in the real estate firm of Brown, Wheelock, Harris, Vought & Co.  "Mr. Chadwick and his bride left the city immediately after the ceremony," reported The New York Times, "and on their return they will make their home at 123 East Seventy-ninth Street."  The couple's country home was in Syosset, Long Island.

Both Dorothy and Elbridge sat on the board of the Philharmonic Symphony Society of New York, and entertainments in the mansion often centered around music.  In 1937, conductor Arthur Rodjinski of the Cleveland Orchestra was invited by the society as a guest conductor.  On February 19, The New York Post reported, "Mr. and Mrs. Elbridge Gerry Chadwick will be hosts at the reception in his honor to be held at their residence, 123 East Seventy-ninth Street."

On February 5, 1938, The New York Post reported, "One of the largest as well as most important weddings of the late season in town is that of Miss Dorothy Douglas Robinson, a grand-niece of President Roosevelt and cousin of Mrs. Roosevelt, to Randolph Appleton Kidder."  (Monroe Douglas Robinson, who came from Paris to give her daughter away, was the son of Corinne Roosevelt Robinson, sister of Theodore Roosevelt.)  The article said, "there will be a large reception at the residence of the bride's mother, Mrs. Elbridge Gerry Chadwick."

Elbridge Gerry Chadwick died in the East 79th Street mansion at the age of 63 on March 23, 1945.  Within a few years, Dorothy sold the house to Ronald and Marietta Endicott Peabody Tree.

The couple, who had recently divorced their spouses, were married on July 26, 1947.  They had one child, Penelope, born in 1949.  Marietta brought her daughter from her previous marriage, Frances Fitzgerald, into the marriage.

Ronald Tree from the collection of the U.K. National Portrait Gallery

Tree's name at birth was Arthur Ronald Lambert Field Tree.  He was born in England of American-born parents, Arthur Tree and Ethel Field, daughter of Marshall Field.  Ronald served as a Member of Parliament from 1933 to 1945.  The family also maintained a home in Barbados, "Heron Bay."

Marietta Tree was as much involved in politics as she was in society.  She became county Democratic chairperson and in 1952 was involved in the presidential election campaign of Adlai Stevenson.  

Stevenson, of course, was defeated in that election.  On January 21, 1953, The New York Times reported, "A half-hour before the inauguration of the man who defeated him at the polls, Adlai E. Stevenson left New York for Barbados."  The article said, "He will stay at Mr. and Mrs. Tree's home in St. James Parish, Barbados."  On the plane was Marietta Tree.  "Mr. Tree will join them Saturday," said the article.

Marietta Tree and Adlai Stevenson before boarding the airplane to Barbados.  The New York Times, January 21, 1953

In fact, Marietta and Stevenson were having a romantic affair, one reportedly acknowledged and accepted by Ronald Tree, who was bisexual.  The New York Times would later explain that Marietta "served as unofficial hostess at dinners Mr. Stevenson gave in his apartment in the Waldorf Towers."  

In 1954, Marietta was elected to the Democratic State Committee and on April 13, 1959, she was sworn in as a member of the New York City Intergroup Relations Commissions.  President John F. Kennedy appointed her to the United Nations Commission on Human Rights in 1961.  The New York Times said, "She arrived at the United States mission almost every day in a chauffeur-driven Rolls Royce."

Marietta Tree and Adlai Stevenson were together in England on July 14, 1965 when, as worded by The New York Times, Stevenson "dropped dead on a London street."  The article said, "She tried vainly to revive him with mouth to mouth respiration."  According to her biography by the Human Rights Commission, that evening she wrote in her diary, "Adlai is dead.  We were together."

Ronald Tree died on July 14, 1976 and Marietta moved to One Sutton Place South where she would remain until her death on August 15, 1991.  

No. 123 East 79th Street next became home to John S. Samuels III.  Born in Galveston, Texas in 1933, Samuels received his law degree in 1960.  He and two other investors borrowed $4.5 million in 1973 to buy the Leckie Smokeless Coal Company.  Within a year the firm's earnings were reported at $50 million and in February 1979, three years after moving into 123 East 79th Street, he appeared on Fortune magazine's list of America's wealthiest men.  It reported his personal fortune to be as much as $300 million (about $1.3 billion in 2026 terms).

A month before that article, on January 9, 1979, The New York Times headlined an article, "House Ransacked," and reported, "The town house of John S. Samuels 3d at 123 East 79th Street was ransacked over the weekend by burglars who took gold and silver flatware, trays and place settings, according to the police, who estimated the value of the items as $500,000."  (By the time of the heist, Samuels was, as well, the chairman of the New York City Opera Company and the City Center.)

The East 79th Street mansion was one of five residences owned by Samuels.  He had two country estates on Long Island, a townhouse in London, and a home in Galveston, Texas.  

In 1979, John Samuels and his wife, the former Ellen Richards separated.  (They had four children, including actor John Stockwell.)  At the time, he was already experiencing financial problems.  An article in The New York Times on March 26, 1981 explained, "A series of reverses, starting in the late 70's, forced him to liquidate many of his personal and corporate assets."  Just two months later, the newspaper reported, "The fine town house at 123 East 79th Street, formerly the home of Marietta Peabody Tree, a former member of the United States delegation to the Union Nations, and the home since 1976 of John S. Samuels 3d, has been bought at auction for $4.05 million by the Brazilian Government."

The article said that the mansion "will be the residence of Brazil's United Nations head of mission."  The Wesson-Leland house remains the property of the Government of Brazil.

photographs by the author

Ralph S. Townsend's 1887 200 West 102nd Street

 

photo by Anthony Bellov

Born in 1854, Ralph Samuel Townsend listed his profession as an architect by his late 20s.  His designs for houses and apartment buildings in the 1880s and '90s routinely reflected the highly-popular and often whimsical Queen Anne style.  In 1886, Townsend received a substantial commission from Charles G. Tomlinson to design a flat-and-store building on the southwest corner of Tenth Avenue and 102nd Street.  (The avenue would be renamed Amsterdam Avenue in 1890.)

Completed at a cost of $28,000 (about $963,000 in 2026), the building was faced in red brick and trimmed in stone and terra cotta.  Townsend centered the residential entrance on the 102nd Street elevation.  His neo-Grec design included stone bandcourses that connected the sills and lintels of the windows.  At the top floor, however, Townsend expressed his penchant for Queen Anne.  On the avenue side, a sunflower rondel sat within the faux gable that fronted the parapet and terminated in fanciful volutes.  Large square panels of sunbursts decorated the chimney backs on 102nd Street.  Smaller terra cotta tiles dotted the top floor facade.

Gracefully scalloped lintels, and tiles of sunflowers and sunbursts were typical of the Queen Anne style.  photograph by Anthony Bellov

Charles G. Tomlinson was not only the building's developer and owner, he and his family were original residents.  He and his wife, Harriet A., had at least five children:  Charles H., Florence J., Arthur R., Herbert and Hattie May.  

Herbert Tomlinson was 12 years old when his family moved into the newly completed building.  The following year, he wrote to The Evening World regarding the newspaper's contest.  His command of language and composition reflected his youthful education:

Being interested in your instructive paper, I thought I would take part in the word-building contest.  As we have no lessons to study in the month of June, I made up my mind to try for the prize.  Inclosed you will find the result of my efforts, which I hope will gain for me the prize.

(The spelling of "enclosed" with an "e" did not come along until the 20th century in America.)

The Tomlinson apartment was the scene of Florence's wedding to George T. Johnson on the afternoon of February 25, 1892.  The Sun remarked, "Miss Tomlinson's gown was of dove-colored silk, with opal trimmings, and she wore diamonds and pearls."

The building can be seen across the partially developed block between 103rd and 102nd Street.  In the foreground is the Boulevard Hotel, by then owned by Julia D. Downs, daughter of the original proprietor, Hiram B. Downs. (original source unknown)

The family suffered a horrific tragedy two years later.  On July 5, 1894, the New York Herald reported, "Hattie Tomlinson, six years old, of No. 200 West 102d street, was discharging fire crackers about half-past three o'clock yesterday afternoon when her dress took fire."  The New York Times added that her "arms and lower part of her body [were] severely burned" and that she "was taken home."

Hattie's injuries were, indeed, severe.  The following day, the New York Herald reported her death.  Her funeral was held in the apartment on July 7.

Terra cotta plaques on the brick brackets compliment the wonderful sunflower-filled rondel.  photograph by Anthony Bellov

In the meantime, the other residents of 200 West 102nd Street were professional.  Among the early tenants was John R. Onderdonk, Jr.  An 1889 graduate of the Stevens Institute of Technology, he was granted a patent in 1890 for "a freight-car coupler of very simple construction."

Also living here at the time were George F. Bender and his wife, the former Ada M. Crawford.  Born in 1881 in Hicksville, Long Island, his first job was a fireman on the Long Island Railroad.  He changed course, working in various undertaking establishments before opening his own business in 1890.  He was, as well, the sexton of  the nearby West End Presbyterian Church at 105th Street and Amsterdam Avenue.

On October 21, 1895, The New York Evening Post reported that 20-year-old C. H. Tomlinson "was arrested yesterday for riding too rapidly on a bicycle around the circle at One Hundred and Sixth Street in Central Park."  He was fined $3 (about $115 today).

The young man appears to have been attending pharmacy school at the time.   As early as spring 1896, the C. H. Tomlinson drugstore occupied the storefront here.  An advertisement in The World on July 11, 1896 sought, "Drug Clerk, junior, must be strictly honest and sober; references.  Tomlinson, 856 Amsterdam."  Three years later, on October 14, 1899, C. H. Tomlinson advertised, "Porter--Wanted, young man as porter for drug store, 856 Amsterdam Ave., 102d st."

It appears that the young druggist was married around that time.  His ad in the Brooklyn Daily Eagle on January 23, 1900 sought, "Wanted--Flat--Small family want 5 or 6 room flat in Brooklyn."

David and Sarah Olive Cogswell Mitchell lived in the building at the time.  Married in 1867, the couple had seven children.  David Mitchell was born in Dumbarton, Scotland in 1846, and was brought to America at the age of three-and-a-half.  He graduated from Brown University and attended the University of Bonn.  Back home, he opened a law office with his brother, Peter.  David Mitchell would become Chief Assistant District Attorney in 1897.

The C. H Tomlinson drugstore was supplanted by a Larimer A. Cushman bakery as early as 1904.  It was one of five bakeries operated throughout the city by the firm.

Cascading fish scales decorate the elongated brackets that flank the entrance.  photograph by Anthony Bellov

The Alfred Nickel family occupied an apartment here in 1908 when their daughters, Vera and Bertha, underwent tonsillectomies at the Manhattan Eye, Ear, and Throat Hospital on March 17.  The operations went horribly wrong.

The New York Times titled an article, "Girl's Death Remarkable," and reported, "The death of Bertha Nickel, four years old...is said by the physicians of the institution to be one of the most unusual in its history."  The surgeon, Dr. Frank Van Fleet, insisted, "It is one case in ten thousand.  Immediately after the tonsils had been cut there was a gush of blood and every effort to stop it was unsuccessful.  The little girl died in a few minutes."  Van Fleet noted, "The little girl went to the hospital with her older sister Vera, who went through a similar operation successfully."  The Evening World contradicted that report, saying on March 23, that Vera "was in a very critical condition in the hospital."

Former City Councilman Stewart M. Brice suffered a nervous breakdown in the summer of 1900.  On September 12, The Evening World reported that his wife said she would not commit him to an insane asylum, "notwithstanding the physicians had declared his mental breakdown incurable."  Brice's brother, W. Kilpatrick Brice, was a lawyer.  Mrs. Brice said that the two of them would manage her husband's financial affairs.  "He has no idea of the value of money, or the obligations connected with it," she said.  "Meanwhile, he will remain with me and my son, and I will take care of him."

Wilburt Weingarth and his bride, the former Florence Stewart, moved into the building shortly after their wedding on January 7, 1928.  On Friday night, March 29, 1929, police officers knocked on their door and arrested the 29-year-old Weingarth.  Another Mrs. Weingarth, this one with the first name of Mabel, accused him of bigamy.  She told the court on March 30 that she and Wilburt were married on April 18, 1922 "and he disappeared some time later."

The parapet detailing was intact in as late as 1940 when Moran's Restaurant occupied the store space.  via the NYC Dept of Records & Information Services.

The building underwent significant alterations in 1947 and it was possibly at this time that the chimney tops and peaks of the gables were shorn off.

A colorful tenant beginning in the early 1960s was artist Louis Abolafia.  In 1964, the 23-year-old smuggled one of his paintings into the Metropolitan Museum of Art and hung it on a wall.  The New York Times reported, "It was taken down almost immediately."  Abolafia told a reporter, "The Met told me my work is too modern for them."

On December 15, 1965, Abolafia began a hunger strike.  Five days into his protest, The New York Times explained that he, "believes that he is being discriminated against by museums because he is not internationally famous."  The abstract-expressionist painter told The Times reporter, "They keep telling me 'You don't have a name.'"  He called his hunger strike "a symbol of my attitude; I must call attention to it," adding, "speaking out does more for the cause of young artists than remaining silent."

Louis Abolafia was still living in 200 West 102nd Street in 1968 when he ran for President on the Love ticket.  Then, days after the election, on November 15, he and three young women were arrested at Chase Manhattan Plaza, "after one of the women had partially disrobed," explained The New York Times.

The female had dropped her fur coat to reveal her bare breasts.  The article said that police "suspected the other women were also about to go topless, which in Mr. Abolafia's lexicon is called a 'bust out.'"  The three women were charged with public lewdness and Abolafia with "prompting the exposure of a female."

Today there are nine apartments in the building.  Most of the red brick facade has been painted brick red, and the stone and terra cotta painted the color of bread mold.  But most of Ralph S. Townsend's 1887 design survives.

many thanks to historian Anthony Bellov for suggesting this post

The Lost Thomas P. Rossiter Mansion - 11 West 38th Street

 

To the left, a sliver of 13 West 38th Street, remodeled simultaneously by Hunt for Eleazar Parmly, can be glimpsed.  from the collection of the Library of Congress.

Born in New Haven, Connecticut in 1818, Thomas Prichard Rossiter was well established as a painter of portrait and historical scenes by 1851.  In 1838, at the age of 20, he exhibited two paintings at the National Academy of Design and the following year moved to New York City.  He was elected to the National Academy in 1849.

In 1851 he married Anna Ehrick Parmly, the daughter of wealthy dentist and poet, Eleazer Parmly.  The newlyweds sailed to Europe, settling in Paris in 1853.  Rossiter won a gold medal at the Universal Exposition in 1855 for his Venice in the Fifteenth Century.  

In the meantime, in September 1854 a son, Ehrick Kensett, was born.  The following year a daughter, Charlotte C., arrived, and Anna Rosalie was born in March 1856.  Shortly after Anna's birth, Anna Parmly Rossiter died at the age of 26.

Thomas brought his children back to New York City.  At the time, 30-year-old architect Richard Morris Hunt had relocated to New York from Washington where he had worked on the renovation and expansion of the U.S. Capitol building.  He began work on the design of the Tenth Street Studios Building, the first structure in America designed specifically for living-and-studio spaces for artists.  It was this work, almost assuredly, that brought Rossiter and Hunt together.

Peter Paul Duggan created this black crayon drawing of Thomas P. Rossiter.  from the collection of The Frick

Rossiter and his father-in-law gave Hunt his first domestic commission in New York--two mansions at 11 and 13 West 38th Street.  The neighborhood, just feet from Fifth Avenue, was filling with sumptuous mansions as Manhattan's millionaires inched up the avenue.

Completed in 1857, the Rossiter house at 11 West 38th Street was faced in red brick and trimmed in stone.  The artist's deep interest in history may have influenced Hunt's neo-classical design.  He striated the first floor, above a short stoop, by alternating red brick with stone bands.  The arched entrance sat within a portico supported by banded and fluted columns, and neo-Classical swags decorated the entablature.  The composition was copied at the easternmost window to preserve balance.  

Three grouped floor-to-ceiling windows at the top floor were fronted by a stone balcony and flanked by niches, intended for statues.  Thrown open, the windows flooded Rossiter's studio with natural light.

Richard Morris Hunt's watercolor rendering.  from the collection of the Library of Congress.

Interestingly, Dr. Eleazer Parmly, unlike Rossiter, refused to pay Hunt for the supervisory portion of the project.  Hunt finally sued the dentist and won.  Later, in 1896, Engineering Magazine would credit Hunt's lawsuit for establishing "a uniform system of charges by percentage."

In his new mansion and studio, Rossiter began work on large canvases, including George Washington and Family, Washington and Lafayette at Mount Vernon, and Washington and His First Cabinet.  As part of his research for those works, in June 1858 he traveled to Mount Vernon.

Rossiter completed Washington and Lafayette at Mount Vernon 1784 in his 38th Street studio in 1859.  from the collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Art

The West 38th Street mansion was filled with antiques.  The Springfield Weekly Republican would later recount,

There were large objects of furniture, such as an oak altar-piece, an oaken buffet of the 14th century, and a sarcophagus of the same age, all quaintly carved with elfish heads, figures of animals, flowers and clusters of fruit.  Also a 13th century armoire, or sideboard, ornamented with Byzantine carving.

In 1860, Thomas Rossiter married Mary Sterling, known as Mollie.  The family moved to Cold Spring, New York and Rossiter's brother-in-law, Ehrick Parmly, moved his family into 11 West 38th Street. 

Born in 1830, Ehrick Parmly, like his father and brother, was a dentist.  All three shared an office at 3 Bond Street.  (David R. Parmly lived in New Jersey.)  Ehrick's wife was Lucie Dubois and the couple had a son, George Dubois, when they moved into 11 West 38th Street.  Another son, John Ehrick, was born in 1861 and a third, Dalton, in 1872.

By the time of Dalton's birth, the Parmly family had been gone from the house for about eight years.  It was now home to Israel David Salomon (who went by his middle name) and his wife, the former Henrietta Luna Hendricks.  Salomon was born in 1820 and Henrietta in 1827.  The couple was married in 1864 and moved into 11 West 38th Street.  Two sons would be born in the house, Salomon in 1865 and Sidney Hendricks two years later.

Also living with the family was David's brother, Benjamin Franklin Salomon, who was 35 years old in 1864.  A bachelor, he died on April 12, 1865.  His funeral was held in the drawing room on the 14th.

In 1870, Douw Ditmars Williamson, Jr. and his wife, the former Mary Frances Dodd, moved into the house.  Born in New York City on November 15, 1830, Williamson graduated from Peekskill Academy in 1844.  Although educated in engineering, he entered business as a clerk.  But his mundane business life turned to the stuff of pulp novels starting in 1849 when he traveled to South America.  The 1896 Genealogical Records of the Williamson Family in America recorded:

In 1851 [he] went to Panama and Ecuador; was ten days crossing the Isthmus on a mule; was with Garibaldi in Havana when Crittenden and his filibusters were shot, and was followed by soldiers, day and night, on his return home.

Back in New York, Williamson married Mary Dodd on November 1, 1853.  The couple would adopt George Norman Williamson, the infant son of Douw's brother, Nicholas.  Then, in 1863, they adopted Cornelia Bodwell, the infant daughter of Mary's sister, Abby Lyman Dodd Bodwell.

In the meantime, Williamson and his brother, Nicholas, founded the Novelty Rubber Co.  Douw Williamson was, as well, an inventor and in 1870 designed an improved traction engine and a steam plow.

Douw Ditmars Williamson, Jr., from the collection of the Century Association.

Despite his swashbuckling past, the Century Association described Douw D. Williamson as "of a retiring, quiet disposition."  Ever expanding his resume, in 1875, he established a chemical works in Long Island City.

The new St. Patrick's Cathedral opened on May 25, 1879.  Its architect, James Renwick, Jr., immediately began designing the archbishop's residence and rectory at the southwest corner of Madison Avenue and 51st Street.  In the meantime, the archdiocese leased the former Williamson mansion.  Four years later, on April 25, 1882, the New York Herald reported, "The new residence of Cardinal McCloskey, which stands back to back with the Cathedral...is very nearly ready to be occupied."  

Cardinal John McCloskey.  from the collection of the New York Public Library

Born in March 1810, Cardinal John McCloskey was appointed the second archbishop of New York by Pope Pius IX on May 6, 1864.  At the time of the New York Herald's article, McCloskey was in ill health.  It explained, "it is said that the Cardinal will not move until his health is better.  His home is at present at 11 West Thirty-eighth street, from which the furniture is now being removed."

Next to occupy the mansion was lace importer Richard Muser and his wife, Cecelia.  On January 4, 1885, The New York Times reported that a defective flue in the basement had started a fire in the house.  It resulted in $500 worth of damages, or about $16,800 in 2026.  On August 13, 1893, The New York Times reported that three days earlier Richard Muser's body had been discovered "at the lodge gate of his Summer home at Suffern, N.Y., with two bullet holes in his head."  The newspaper said there were "divided opinions as to the cause of his death."

The Musers had left West 38th Street several years earlier.  By 1889, No. 11 was home to John O. Donner, his wife, the former Mary Elizabeth Van Arsdale, and their teenaged daughter.  The New York Times described Donner as a "prominent and wealthy man, connected with Havemeyer & Elder in the sugar business."  The family's country estate was in Ramsey, New Jersey.

Mary Donner was experiencing health issues at the time, and on July 17, 1889 she sailed to Europe for treatment.  Accompanying her was her daughter; Mary's physician, Dr. Ruppaner; a nurse; a governess; and the daughter of Marshall T. Davison (apparently as a companion of the Donners' daughter).  The doctor left the party in Vienna and they traveled on to San Remo, Italy.

In February 1890, John O. Donner received a cable informing him that Mary was "in a critical condition," as reported by The New York Times.  He sailed on the steamer Zoller on February 26.  On March 1, The New York Times reported that a cablegram from San Remo announced the death of Mary Elizabeth Van Arsdale Donner.  The article said, "He will not hear of her death, therefore, until he arrives in Europe."

The West 38th Street residence next became home to Elbert Ellery Anderson and his family.  Born in 1833, he was the son of Henry James Anderson, a renowned professor of mathematics and astronomy, the grandson of librettist Lorenzo Da Ponte (who brought Italian opera to America), and a descendant of Founding Father William Ellery, from whom Elbert got his middle name.  As a teen, Elbert accompanied his father on a Dead Sea expedition.  He famously carved his name "E. E. Anderson" onto the wall of the Temple of Abu Simbel, which is visible today.

Elbert Ellery Anderson (original source unknown)

Anderson served in the Civil War, after which he began his law practice.  In 1887, President Grover Cleveland tasked him to investigate the Union Pacific and Central Pacific Railways.  He and his wife, the former Augusta Chauncey, had two children, Henry James and Peter Chauncey.

Peter Chauncey married May Ogden and brought his bride to live in the West 38th Street mansion.  Their daughter, May Ellery, was born in 1891.  The little girl died at the age of 10 on November 9, 1901 and her funeral was held in the house two days later.

On February 24, 1903, The Chicago Tribune reported that Elbert E. Anderson "went to a matinée with his eldest son on Monday afternoon and spent the evening with his family.  About 5:30 this morning Mrs. Anderson heard him call for assistance.  He was almost unconscious when she reached his bedside, and he died in a few minutes."

Anderson's funeral was too large to hold in the house.  It was held in the Church of the Transfiguration on February 27.  Within the church were judges, politicians, and military figures.  The New-York Tribune reported that his estate "would probably be found to be nearly $1,000,000."  (That figure would translate to about $36.8 million today.) 

Peter Chauncey Anderson and his family remained in the house until 1912, when it and the neighborhood mansions were demolished to make way for the Lord & Taylor department store building, completed in 1914.

photograph by Jim Henderson