The 1903 Hotel Darlington - 402 Eighth Avenue

 

photograph by Anthony Bellov

In 1902, the northern edge of Manhattan's Chelsea district was just seeing the influx of industry.  That year, still eight years before the opening of the magnificent Pennsylvania Station one block to the north, Isidor H. Kempner broke ground for a hotel and saloon at the northeast corner of Eighth Avenue and 30th Street.  Designed by the well-known architectural firm of Buchman & Fox, it cost Kempner $25,000 to erect, or about $940,000 in 2026 terms.  

The architects drew inspiration from Colonial prototypes.  Faced in red brick above the ground floor, the Hotel Darlington was three stories tall and stretched 64 feet down West 30th Street.  Its turret-like upper corner was likely capped with a shallow, conical "witch's hat" roof.  The second floor openings wore Georgian-inspired splayed lintels with layered keystones, while the treatment of the top floor windows was slightly less exuberant.  

In the rear of the saloon, which was initially run by Howard Babcock, was a large meeting space, Gallagher's Hall.  It was rented to various social, political and labor groups.  The space had a separate entrance on the side street.

From the beginning, the Hotel Darlington got an unsavory reputation.  Shortly after midnight on September 11, 1904, William F. McLean, an unmarried bookkeeper, checked in with a woman named Dora Callahan.  Within a few hours, McLean was dead.

The New York Herald said flatly that McLean "is said to have been a drug fiend."  According to Dora, who was held as a "suspicious person," a little while after entering the room, "McLean took two hypodermic injections of some drug."  The New York Herald reported, "When she awoke at 4 o'clock in the morning she could not arouse her companion and a physician was called in.  McLean was dead."  The following day, The Evening World reported that the 22-year-old Dora Callahan had been released.  "The evidence failed to show her in any way responsible for the man's death," said the article.

On July 26, 1905, the Excise Board revoked Howard Babcock's liquor license "under the provisions of the Ambler Law," according to The Evening Post.  (The Ambler Law restricted the sale of liquor on Sunday.)  The revocation was short-lived, apparently, and before long Gallagher's Hall was again routinely booked.

In its June 19, 1909 issue, for example, The Moving Picture World reported, "The regular meeting of the Picture Machine Branch Local 15, I. A. T. S. E., was held at Gallagher's Hall, 402 Eighth avenue, to an overflowing attendance."  The union rented the room each Monday night.  

And on February 11, 1911, the Irish American Advocate reported on the "third annual social and dance" of the Ancient Order of Hibernians the previous week.  "The affair was one continual round of pleasure from 8 p.m. to 4 a.m.," said the article.

Meanwhile, residents upstairs continued to draw unwanted publicity.  On May 16, 1911, The New York Times reported that the Secret Service had broken a counterfeiting ring that "had for its object the flooding of Alaska with counterfeit money."  The Federal agents had seized a printing plant in Hoboken where the fake bills were being made.  The newspaper said, "The plot started six weeks ago, when some of those under arrest lived at 402 Eighth Avenue."

Despite the often nefarious goings on upstairs, the meetings in the rear of the saloon were respectable--at least for the time being.  On July 10, 1913, Building and Engineering News reported that the "Park-Presidio District Senator Scott Club" was formed here; and four months later, on November 7, The Evening Telegram reported, "Seven hundred and fifty members of the [Chauffeurs and Taxicab Drivers Local No. 267] attended a meeting held in Gallagher's Hall, No. 402 Eighth avenue."  Taxicab drivers had been on strike and the meeting was held to consider the owners' offer.

Renting a room here beginning in 1925 was Russian-born Sam Hysso.  The 32-year-old came to New York City to study art at the National Academy of Design.  Unfortunately, things were not working out for him.  Three years later, The New York Times said he still "spoke English badly," adding, "It was said at the school that he seemed to be unhappy."  

Provincetown, Massachusetts was a summer art colony at the time.  In the summer of 1928, Hysso traveled there, but his solitude and unhappiness continued.  The New York Times said his only confidant there was "a small boy."  Hysso, said the article, was known as the "loneliest artist in Provincetown."  That boy told the town's police chief that Hysso complained that he was "tired out and sick of life."  As a storm was brewing on the afternoon of August 5, the artist told someone he was going out to "study the cloud effects."  He wandered out into the sand dunes and was never seen again.

Towering business buildings provided the ground floor business a constant supply of patrons. via the NYC Dept of Records & Information Services.

In 1933, with Prohibition in effect, Michael F. O'Day signed a lease on the former saloon and meeting hall.  He installed an eatery, O'Day's Restaurant, in the front and a dining room in the rear.  By then, the neighborhood had filled with factory and office buildings, resulting in a brisk business.  In 1953, O'Day testified that he served 300 persons each day.  

That year, while O'Day was ostensibly at home and sick, five of his seven employees were arrested for running a gambling joint in the dining room area.  Under questioning, O'Day insisted he was ignorant of the operation.  "Well, it is a cinch I wouldn't sacrifice my livelihood, a good business," by allowing illegal activities, he insisted.

photograph by Anthony Bellov

The building was sold in 1952 and 12 years later a renovation resulted in an "eating and drinking" establishment on the ground floor and four apartments each in the second and third.  At some point the brick facade was painted mint green and the brownstone trim a rosy-pink.  Forty-six years after it opened here in 1980, the Molly Wee Pub and Restaurant continues to serve the busy Penn Station community.

many thanks to historian Anthony Bellov for suggesting this post.

The Lost John Aitken House - 72 East 56th Street

 

photo by Wurts Bros. from the collection of the Museum of the City of New York

On March 25, 1881 Luke and Martha A. Slater purchased the 20-foot-wide brownstone at 72 East 56th Street, between Park and Madison Avenues.  They paid Samuel Zeimer $35,000 for the four-story residence, or about $957,000 in 2023.

Born in Fishkill, New York in 1832, Slater was of "Dutch and Yankee heritage," according to The New York Times.  As a boy he left home to work in a machine shop in Newburg, New York and before he was 21-years-old opened his own firm, the Redfern Iron Works.  Slater focused on ship repairs.  In 1875 he closed that company and established a new partnership with Alexander Reid named Slater & Reid.  The New York Times later said the firm had repaired "three-fourths of all the foreign vessels that entered the port of New-York."

Luke Slater would not enjoy his handsome home for especially long.  On June 26, 1887 he suffered a fatal heart attack at the age of 55.  His funeral was held in the house three days later and he was buried in Sleepy Hollow Cemetery in Tarrytown, New York where the Slaters' country home was located.

Martha left East 56th Street almost immediately afterward, never to return.  An advertisement in the New York Herald on October 8 offered, "To Rent Furnished--four story brown stone house to private family; perfect order."

In 1903 she leased the house to Eleanor Claire Hughes Munde.  Her renowned husband, Dr. Paul Fortunatus Munde had died the previous year.  Her wealth and social station were reflected in the reception held in the house following her daughter Natalie Morris Munde's wedding in St. Bartholomew's Church on April 26, 1905.  Among the guests were several members of the Roosevelt family, the Frederick Dent Grants, Mrs. J. Pierpont Morgan, the Augustus D. Juilliards, Mrs. Henry Lewis Morris and other high-level socialites.

Before the wedding, the New York Herald had announced that Eleanor "will probably pass part of the coming summer in Europe."  What was certain was that she would not be returning to 72 East 56th Street.  In February Martha A. Slater had sold the house to John Aitken.  Six months later the New York Herald commented, "John W. Aitken is remodelling [sic] No. 72 East Fifty-sixth street into the American basement type of house."

Aitken had hired architects Foster, Gade & Graham to transform the outdated brownstone into a modern Edwardian home.  The all-encompassing plans, filed in May, called for new facades, a rear extension, and new internal stairs and walls.

Construction was not quite completed when this photo was taken.  The stone parlor window railing has not yet been installed.  The Brickbuilder, September 1908 (copyright expired)

Foster, Gade & Graham created a charming Colonial Revival home faced in red brick and trimmed in white stone.  An ample arched fanlight crowned the entrance and the grouped parlor windows were fronted by a stone faux balcony.  The second story windows opened onto an iron-railed balcony, their splayed lintels typical of Colonial architecture.  The mansard featured two dormers behind a brick parapet.

The first and second floor plans reflect the extension Aitken had added to the rear.  The Brickbuilder, September 1908 (copyright expired)

Aitken was a member of the dry goods business Aitken, Son & Co. founded by his father.  A 1901 graduate of Princeton University, he and his wife, the former Ethel Ralson, had been married in her parents' home in Chicago in 1902.  When they moved into their newly remodeled home, they had a baby son, John William, who was born on May 28, 1904.  The couple would have two daughters, Barbara and H. Jean.

The family's summer home, Cumbernauld, was at Oyster Bay, Long Island.  Twelve years after Foster, Gade & Graham had remodeled their townhouse, the firm was called back to improve the country estate.  On August 11, 1917 the Record & Guide reported that the architects were designing a one-story garage and wing, a two-and-a-half-story chauffeur's cottage, and a farmer's cottage of the same size.

That year the United States entered World War I.  Although John Aitken was 38-years-old, he entered the navy, attaining the rank of lieutenant.  While serving with the transport division at the Philadelphia Navy Yard, he met Chief Yeomanette Harriet D. Berry.  Shortly after the war, in January 1920, John and Ethel Aitken were divorced in Reno, Nevada.  Four months later, on April 23, John and Harriet D. Berry were married.  

With their divorce pending, the Aikens had sold 72 East 56th Street in November 1919 to Arthur N. Peck and his wife, Ella.  Peck was the head of the stockbrokerage firm Peck & Co.  The couple had a son, Arthur K. and a daughter Ruth P.  Their summer home was in Woodmere, Long Island.

Two views of a bedroom, most likely a guest room, during the Peck residency.  photo by Wurts Bros. from the collection of the Museum of the City of New York

When the Pecks moved into 72 East 56th Street, commerce was inching into the formerly exclusive neighborhood.  They would remain only through 1925, after which the basement level was remodeled for a restaurant, Gus Christo, and the upper floors to apartments.

A writer for the humor magazine Judge reported the "important news" on December 11, 1926 that "Gus [Christo] has opened a place at 72 East Fifty-sixth that's a darb--best meals in town!  I get a free meal for this ad!"

In 1941 the basement restaurant had large windows and a shop has been installed at the parlor level.  via the NYC Dept of Records & Information Services.

In the mid-1940s photographer Harriet Arnold lived and worked from an apartment here.  In its March 1945 issue, Popular Photography said she "has successfully solved one photo-economic problem, to wit, how not to pay additional rend for a studio."  That solution made for tight conditions, however.  "Miss Arnold lives in a one-and-a-half room apartment...which means that she lives, eats, sleeps, entertains, and works in one room."

Harriet Arnold sets up a fashion photo shot in her tiny studio apartment.  Popular Photography, March 1945

In 1950 D. D. and Leslie Tillett opened the House of T. Fabrics here, selling drapery and upholstery materials.  Their fashion-forward designs reflected mid-century tastes.  On June 15, 1951 The New York Times reported on a new collection "enlivened with the hot colors and amusing patterns usually associated with Mexican designs."  The journalist was amused by one multi-colored print called Bouillabaisse.  "Drawings of the recipe's ingredients, including octopus, clams and different shell fish, are printed in stripes on the fabric."

In 1979 Les Petites Gourmandes opened in the former Gus Christo space.  The New York Times's food critic Mimi Sheraton said, "Walking back into the small dining room of Les Petites Gourmandes is like taking a step back in time to an intimate supper club of the mid 1930's or early 40's."  She called the French restaurant's menu "as stylish as its décor."  The restaurant remained well into the 1980's.

By then the Jay Johnson Gallery and the America's Folk Heritage Gallery operated from the building.  But the end of the line for the former residence was on the near horizon.  It and the surrounding properties on 55th Street and Park Avenue were demolished to make way for the Park Avenue Tower, designed by Murphy/Jahn Architects, which opened in 1986.

photo by Epicogenius

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The Ernest Iselin House - 144-146 E 65th Street

In 1924 banker Adrian Iselin purchased the two 19th century brownstones at Nos. 144 and 146 East 65th Street through the Adlin Corporation, of which he was head.  Before the year was out the old houses were gone, replaced by a double-wide Colonial Revival mansion.

Designed by the architectural firm of Treanor & Fatio, it was faced in red brick and rose four stories.   The main entrance and service door slipped in among the arched openings of the ground floor to create a dignified arcade.   A full-width balconette fronted the tall windows of the second floor and a high mansard with four dormers sat above the stone cornice.

It became home to Iselin's son, Ernest, his wife the former Pauline Whittier, and their two children, Ernest, Jr. and Louise.  Six servants lived on the upper floors.  The extended Iselin family had been prominent in Manhattan society for decades.

Ernest Iselin was a partner with his father in the brokerage firm A. Iselin & Co. and an officer or director in a dozen other corporations.  Pauline was born in Boston and was educated in private schools and in Europe.  She could trace her American roots to Thomas Whittier who settled in Newbury, Massachusetts in 1638.

The family had barely moved into their 65th Street mansion when Iselin became part of a world-wide controversy.  In December 1924 Grand Duchess Victoria Feodorovna, wife of Grand Duke Cyril arrived in New York.  The Duke had proclaimed himself Tsar of Russia and New York's Russian community treated its visitor as a head of state.

The London Daily Telegraph reported that the Grand Duchess was received "with Royal honours," and that "'Hail to the Tsar' was played by the orchestra from a neighbouring Russian restaurant at a reception given for the Grand Duchess at the Plaza Hotel."

But The West Australian noted three months later that Iselin threw a wrench into the jubilation.  "The previous day Mr. Ernest Iselin, a New York banker, had disclosed a letter sent him by his brother-in-law, a native Russian."  The letter was a copy of one written to Grand Duke Nicholas Nicholaievitch, the oldest member of the Romanov family, from the Dowager Empress (the mother of the assassinated Tsar Nicholas).   It revealed her "strong criticism" of Duke Cyril who, according to the newspaper, "had sought vainly to win the approval" of the family for his assumption to the throne.

Through her lady-in-waiting, Madame Helen Orloff, the Grand Duchess dismissed Iselin's letter as "false and misleading."

A less controversial brush with nobility came about in 1929.  On September 18 that year the Iselins announced the engagement of Louise to Count Leonardo Marcati, the son of Count Alexandro Marcati of Greece.  The romantic match caused excitement within society and The New York Times deemed the engagement "of more than usual interest," saying it "links members of prominent families of this country and Europe."  The marriage, however, would not come to pass.

About a month later a man began showing up at the Iselin's door.  On each occasion the maid rebuffed him.  William White was insistent that Pauline was his long lost mother.

On Saturday night, December 7 Pauline was hosting a bridge party and, just after midnight, Ernest took the dog "for an airing in the park."  The 30-year old White had apparently been watching the house and with Ernest out of the way, he went to the door and insisted on seeing Pauline.  Somehow he managed to get by the maid and burst into the room where, according to The New York Times, "he threw the card party into turmoil."

Cool minds prevailed and White was quieted while a patrolman was summoned.  Several days later the newspaper following up on the story, saying White had been sent to Bellevue Hospital for "ten days' observation."

Pauline's entertainments most often centered on philanthropic causes. In 1933 she founded the Generosity Thrift Shop on Third Avenue.  It became her passion.  The proceeds of the shop aided a variety of organizations, including the Tuberculosis Auxiliary, the Post-Graduate Hospital Social Service, and the New York Exchange for Women's Work, and many others.  She went to the shop nearly every day and often personally attended to customers.

On January 23, 1938 Louise's parents announced her engagement to Wadsworth R. Lewis.  The well-connected Lewis was a member of several country clubs.  But something went awry with this romance, as well.

Meetings of the board of directors of the Generosity Thrift Shop were routinely held in the Iselin home.  Pauline tirelessly organized and directed an annual fashion show, normally held at the Waldorf-Astoria, to benefit the shop.  The Times noted at one point "These exhibitions, which always drew a large attendance from society, were more thorough and elaborate than all but  very few of their type."

Seemingly unlucky in love, Louise became engaged to Augustus K. Mills in February 1942.   This time it stuck.  The wedding took place in the nearby Church of St. Vincent Ferrer on Park Avenue on February 11, following by a reception in the Iselin home.

On February 28, 1946 Pauline Iselin fell ill.  Three days later she died at the age of 69.  At the time, Ernest Jr. was a naval attaché serving in Belgrade.

Ernest Iselin remained in the 65th Street house for just over two years, selling it in April 1948 to David Rockefeller.  In reporting on the sale, The New York Times called the property "One of the finest town houses on the East Side" and noted it "will be altered from plans by Mott B. Schmidt, architect."

Schmidt (who was especially known for his neo-Georgian designs and who was highly responsible for the architectural personality of Sutton Place) did not tamper with Treanor & Fatio's facade, apparently focusing on interior details.   When the Rockefellers moved in there were eight family bedrooms, and six staff bedrooms.  In the basement were two vaults--one for wine, the other for valuables.

David Rockefeller was the grandson of John D. Rockefeller, America's first billionaire.  The chairman of Chase Manhattan Bank and and of the Museum of Modern Art, co-founded by his mother, Abby Aldrich Rockefeller, in 1929.  Born on June 12, 1915, he had grown up in the largest private house in the city at the time, No. 10 West 54th Street.

Rockefeller and his wife, the former Margaret McGrath, were married in 1940 and would have six children.  Margaret would be as visible in philanthropic and social circles as her husband, working on behalf of the New York Botanical Garden and the New York Philharmonic, for instance.  She made substantial contributions to Lincoln Center for the Performing Arts, becoming a trustee in 1953.

photos via 6sqft.com

The family maintained a 107-room summer cottage at Seal Harbor, Maine, and an estate in Pocantico Hills, near Tarrytown, New York.  Both David and Margaret (known as Peggy) were avid yachtsmen and horseback riders.

In 1951 Rockefeller was a member of the Westchester County Planning Commission, formed to further civic, business and cultural development in Westchester.  It was most likely a trip associated with that project that earned him a speeding ticket in August that year.  He was fined $10 in Bronx Traffic Court.

Rather unexpectedly, in the mid-1970's Peggy took a shine to cattle.  She began to buy and raise the animals first on Barlett Island in Maine, near Seal Harbor; and then at Pocantico.  No longer a hobby, the venture grew when the Rockefellers purchased four farms in Columbia County, New York, in 1980.  The refined and cultured Peggy became what The Times called "an accomplished farmer." raising purebred Simmental cattle.

In the meantime, like all Rockefellers, David and Peggy collected art.  The 65th Street house and David's Rockefeller Center offices filled with some 1,500 artworks.  Hanging in the house were modern works by the likes of Matisse, Cezanne, Gauguin, and Picasso; as well as Asian and European porcelains.  Much of the furniture dated from the 18th century.

Peggy died at the age of 80 on March 26, 1996.  Her long list of accomplishments and philanthropies included her co-founding the American Farmland Trust and the Maine Coast Heritage Trust.  David survived to the age of 101, dying at Ponantico Hills on March 19, 2017.

The mansion is part of an architecturally fascinating block.

Thee months later the mansion that had been home to only two families was put on the market for $32.5 million.  The art collection sold at auction in 2018, bringing in $832.6 million.  The house sold in April 2018 for $20 million.

photographs by the author